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aucun résumé de modification
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== Le connecteur GPIO ==
{{ADFImage|RASP-PIZERO-GPIO-00.jpg}}
The most intriguing difference for hackers and makers is that the Pi Zero does not come with the soldered GPIO header. Partially this is to save cost, but it also allows the Pi Zero to be very thin and gives you the option of embedding it easily into a project box.
Cons:
* You have to solder in the header to use Pi HATs and Pi toppers
Pros:
* You can practice your soldering!
* Can skip the GPIO header to keep the Pi Zero super slim
* Solder wires directly into the GPIO pads, use only what you need
* Try different, exotic headers such as right angle or socket header
== Utiliser un connecteur classique ==
Like blue jeans and Coca-Cola, the {{pl|618|2x20 male header}} is the classic option.
Vous pouvez très facilement rompre une section de 20 broches sur un pinHeader double rang 2x40 broches.
{{ADFImage|RASP-PIZERO-GPIO-10.jpg}}
Once soldered in, you can plug in any HAT or topper. The pinout is completely identical to the 2x20 headers on the Pi 2 and Pi A+ & B+
{{ADFImage|RASP-PIZERO-GPIO-11.jpg}}
== Utiliser un connecteur mâle ==
This one is interesting, if you solder in a 2x20 female socket header.
Il existe sous deux format, le connecteur {{pl|485|mâle extra long}} et le connecteur mâle court.
{{ADFImage|RASP-PIZERO-GPIO-20.jpg}}
{{ADFImage|RASP-PIZERO-GPIO-21.jpg}}
Cela vous permet d'attacher votre Pi-Zero sur un T-Cobbler!
{{ADFImage|RASP-PIZERO-GPIO-22.jpg}}
== Utiliser un connecteur à 90° ==
Or, take it even more extreme with 2x20 right angle female header
{{ADFImage|RASP-PIZERO-GPIO-30.jpg}}
Now you can stick it into a Cobbler or T-Cobbler and it will sit sort of like a computer daughtercard!
{{ADFImage|RASP-PIZERO-GPIO-31.jpg}}
{{RASP-PIZERO-TRAILER}}
{{RASP-PIZERO-TRAILER}}