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| This tutorial can be conduct with your own source of materials. | | This tutorial can be conduct with your own source of materials. |
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− | If by any chance you have a {{pl|2271|Cansat Pico Kit}}, you do have the needed material but also additional boards to pre-assemble a CANSAT objet. | + | If you have a {{pl|2271|Cansat Pico Kit}} then you do have the needed material but also additional boards to pre-assemble a CANSAT object. |
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− | This section contains recommandations and tips to follow to quickly assemble your kit and be ready to work within 10 to 15 minutes. | + | This section contains recommendations and tips to follow to quickly assemble your kit and be ready to work within 10 to 15 minutes. |
| + | |
| + | There are two mains sections: |
| + | 1. Soldering the required items on the boards. |
| + | 2. Assembling the '''Base''' board and '''Prototyping''' with the ribbon is an exciting moment... so the first described<br />Anyway, don't forget to solder perform the soldering tasks prior to attach the ribbon. |
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| == Raspberry-Pi Pico Soldering == | | == Raspberry-Pi Pico Soldering == |
− |
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− | {{traduction}}
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− |
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| The Pico is the MicroControler propeling the board. | | The Pico is the MicroControler propeling the board. |
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| It is soldered on the top of the Cansat Base Board, this can be done with Pin Header or directly flat on the board. | | It is soldered on the top of the Cansat Base Board, this can be done with Pin Header or directly flat on the board. |
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− | [[fichier:ENG-CANSAT-PICO-01.jpg|480px]] | + | [[fichier:ENG-CANSAT-PICO-01.jpg|360px]] |
| + | |
| + | Lets starts to assemble it! |
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| {{asm-begin}} | | {{asm-begin}} |
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| {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-10.jpg}} | | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-10.jpg}} |
| {{asm-text}} Pick up the base board and place it with the top part up. You should see the message "Raspberry Pico (This side)" on the board. | | {{asm-text}} Pick up the base board and place it with the top part up. You should see the message "Raspberry Pico (This side)" on the board. |
| + | |
| + | If you are more confortable with leveled board to work on then place the piece of cardboard under the board to help you when soldering. |
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| {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-11.jpg}} | | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-11.jpg}} |
− | {{asm-text}} Avec paramètre additionnel qui réduit l'image à 250px (size=250px) | + | {{asm-text}} Cut two sections of pins, we will is them to align the Pico to solder it. |
| + | |
| + | {{underline|Tip:}} Make a section of 8 pins, it can be reused to solder the powerboost. |
| + | |
| + | Place the long part of the PinHeader in the Pico holes (from under board) as shown on the picture. |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-12.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Place the Pico on the top of the board. It should be perfectly aligned thanks to the pin header. |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-13.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Solder two opposite pads on the board to make the Pico staying on the right place. |
| + | |
| + | Place the bit of iron just at the separation between the two boards. |
| + | |
| + | Melt solder... it will start to melt on the base board then also wet the Pico pad. |
| + | |
| + | Voilà! you just learn to solder a castelate pad. Repeat the same operation on the opposite side to secure the Pico on the base. |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-14.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Remove the pin headers then solder the remaining pads. |
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− | Autre ligne
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− | * Et bullet list :-)
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| {{asm-end}} | | {{asm-end}} |
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− | == PowerBoost 500 Charger Soldering == | + | == Lipo Booster soldering == |
| + | The kit can be used either with a PowerBoost 500 Charger, either a PowerBoost 1000 Charger. |
| + | |
| + | The soldering operation depends on the selected PowerBoost model. |
| + | |
| + | [[fichier:ENG-CANSAT-PICO-05b.jpg|640px]] |
| + | |
| + | === PowerBoost 500 Charger Soldering === |
| | | |
| The PowerBoost 500 is the default powering system of this kit. | | The PowerBoost 500 is the default powering system of this kit. |
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− | {{traduction}} | + | {{ambox-stop|text=The instructions doesn't applies to the PowerBoost 1000 charger.}} |
| + | |
| + | [[fichier:ENG-CANSAT-PICO-02.jpg|360px]] |
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− | == PowerBoost 1000 Charger Soldering ==
| + | Let's solder it |
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− | The PowerBoost 500 of the kit can be replaced with a PowerBoost 1000 to get more power (1000mA) from the Lipo battery
| + | {{asm-begin}} |
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− | {{traduction}} | + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-20.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Pico up the base board with the back of the board on the desk. |
| + | |
| + | You should see Qwiic connector and the text "PowerBoost 500 Charger" written. |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-21.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Place a section of 8 pins into the connector (the short part into the connector). |
| + | |
| + | {{underline|Tip:}} use a small piece a paper tape to maintain the connector right in place. |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-22.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Flip over the board and solder the connector in place. |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-23.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Flip the board again (to see the "PowerBoost" text). |
| + | |
| + | Slides the PowerBoost 500 on the connector, Solder it and cut-out the pin near of the board (with a diagonal cutter). |
| + | |
| + | '''WARNING: Electronic components must be visible on the breakout!''' |
| + | |
| + | {{underline|Tip:}} |
| + | * Push on the PowerBoost breakout with the nail against the connector.<br />This will flatten the breakout on the connector (and make it paralleled to the base board). |
| + | * Charge the tip of the iron with some solder. |
| + | * Tack a drop of solder on one pin to make the breakout staying right in place (no need to be perfect right now) |
| + | * Solder the other pins of the breakout |
| + | * Now solder the initial tacked pin (to have a nice & great solder join on that pin too) |
| + | |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-end}} |
| + | |
| + | === PowerBoost 1000 Charger Soldering === |
| + | |
| + | The PowerBoost 500 of the kit can be replaced with a '''PowerBoost 1000 to get more power''' (1000mA) from the Lipo battery |
| + | |
| + | {{ambox-stop|text=The instructions doesn't applies to the PowerBoost 500 charger.}} |
| + | |
| + | [[fichier:ENG-CANSAT-PICO-03.jpg|360px]] |
| + | |
| + | Let's solder it |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-begin}} |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-20.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Pico up the base board with the back of the board on the desk. |
| + | |
| + | You should see Qwiic connector and the text "PowerBoost 500 Charger" written. |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-30.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Prepare a section of 8 Pins and remove 2 of the pins as showed on the picture. |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-31.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Place the modified pin Header into the connector (the short part into the connector). |
| + | |
| + | {{underline|Tip:}} use a small piece a paper tape to maintain the connector right in place. |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-22.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Flip over the board and solder the connector in place. |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-row|img=ENG-CANSAT-PICO-33.jpg}} |
| + | {{asm-text}} Flip the board again (to see the "PowerBoost" text). |
| + | |
| + | Slides the PowerBoost 1000 Charger breakout on the connector and Solder the pins (except the 2 missing ones). |
| + | |
| + | '''WARNING: back of the breakout board MUST be visible (not the components)!''' |
| + | |
| + | {{underline|Tip:}} |
| + | * Maintain the PowerBoost breakout with your fingers on the top part of the connector.<br />This way, the breakout stays paralleled to the base board. |
| + | * Charge the tip of the iron with some solder. |
| + | * Tack a drop of solder on one pin to make the breakout staying right in place (no need to be perfect right now) |
| + | * Solder the other pins of the breakout |
| + | * Now solder the initial tacked pin (to have a nice & great solder join on that pin too) |
| + | |
| + | |
| + | {{asm-end}} |
| + | |
| + | === SparkFun Lipo Charger/Booster Soldering === |
| + | |
| + | The PowerBoost 500 of the kit can be replaced with a '''SparkFun Lipo Charger/Booster to get more power''' (1000mA) from the Lipo battery |
| + | |
| + | {{ambox-stop|text=The instructions only applies to the SparkFun Lipo Charger/Booster (PRT-14411).}} |
| + | |
| + | [[File:POWERBOOST-1000-CHARGER-SPARKFUN.jpg|320px]] |
| + | |
| + | Let's solder it! |
| + | |
| + | [[File:ENG-CANSAT-PICO-40.jpg|640px]] |
| + | |
| + | Ideally, we should add a Schottky Diode (they are super fast) at the output of the "Lipo Charger/Booster" to avoids back current into the booster when the Pico is connected to a computer. |
| + | |
| + | {{tmbox | type = speedy | text = The board switch must be on ON to power the Cansat from the Lipo.<br />Place it on OFF for long storage period to disconnect the battery from the board.}} |
| + | |
| + | {| class="wikitable" |
| + | |- style="font-weight:bold;" |
| + | ! Lipo<br />Charger/Booster |
| + | ! Cansat Base<br />silkscreen |
| + | ! PICO pin<br />implied |
| + | ! Remark |
| + | |- |
| + | | 5V+ |
| + | | 5Vo |
| + | | Vsys |
| + | | Adding a Schottky diode would be great.<br />When the Booster is active, it power-up the Pico through the VSYS pin. |
| + | |- |
| + | | 5V- |
| + | | G |
| + | | GND |
| + | | |
| + | |- |
| + | | USB+ |
| + | | VBUS |
| + | | VBus |
| + | | Will be at +5V when the pico is wired to a computer. This will |
| + | |- |
| + | | USB- |
| + | | G |
| + | | GND |
| + | | |
| + | |- |
| + | | EN |
| + | | En |
| + | | |
| + | | Will disable the Booster when tied to Ground |
| + | |} |
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| == RFM69HCW Soldering == | | == RFM69HCW Soldering == |
| The RFM69HWC is the radio module used in the CanSat-Pico kit to transmit data | | The RFM69HWC is the radio module used in the CanSat-Pico kit to transmit data |
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− | {{traduction}} | + | {{ambox | text = 22/11/2022 21:23 - ''fix the wiring miso-->miso & mosi-->mosi in the diagram''.}} |
| + | |
| + | [[Fichier:ENG-CANSAT-PICO-RFM69HCW-to-Cansat-Pico-Base-fixed.jpg|640px]] |
| + | |
| + | {| class="wikitable" |
| + | |- style="font-weight:bold;" |
| + | ! RFM69HCW |
| + | ! UEXT pin |
| + | ! PICO |
| + | ! Remark |
| + | |- |
| + | | RST |
| + | | |
| + | | GP3 |
| + | | |
| + | |- |
| + | | CS |
| + | | |
| + | | GP5 |
| + | | keep the same pin as receiver.<br />Otherwise use UEXT 10 (=gp10) |
| + | |- |
| + | | MISO |
| + | | 7 |
| + | | |
| + | | GP4 = MISO |
| + | |- |
| + | | MOSI |
| + | | 8 |
| + | | |
| + | | GP7 = MOSI |
| + | |- |
| + | | SCK |
| + | | 9 |
| + | | |
| + | | GP6 = SCK |
| + | |- |
| + | | GND |
| + | | 2 |
| + | | |
| + | | PICO GND |
| + | |- |
| + | | VIN |
| + | | 1 |
| + | | |
| + | | PICO 3.3V |
| + | |} |
| + | |
| + | == Attaching the boards together == |
| + | You are certainly impatient to attach the boards together with the ribbon. |
| + | |
| + | '''If''' the required components are already soldered on the boards '''then''' everything is ready to attach the board together '''otherwise''' browse up this page to locate the required soldering tasks. |
| + | |
| + | === About the FPC connector === |
| + | |
| + | The selected FPC connector us the "Press Fit" technology which is resistant to traction and vibration. Such connectors can even been definitively locked with some glue. |
| + | |
| + | This means than once the ribbon right in place into the connector, you press down the locker to fit/secure the ribbon. |
| + | |
| + | [[Fichier:FPC-connector.jpg|480px]] |
| + | |
| + | Once secured, the ribbon will not move without releasing the lock. |
| + | |
| + | As show on the section of the connector here under, the ribon is inserted into the connector with contact facing the contact point. |
| + | |
| + | When the moving part is inserted behind the ribon, the ribon contact are pressed onto the contact points. Points that also firmly maintain the ribbon right in place. |
| + | |
| + | [[Fichier:FPC-connector-section.png|640px]] |
| + | |
| + | === How to manipulate the FPC Connector === |
| + | |
| + | The lock slides of 1 millimeter up. |
| + | |
| + | 1mm is not a lot but quite enough to secure the ribbon in place. |
| + | |
| + | [[Fichier:How-to-manipulate-FPC.png|640px]] |
| + | |
| + | {{ambox-stop|text=The FPC connector is not designed for intensive opening/closing operations (~30 times) but to firmly secure a connexion during a final assembly phase. Only remove the ribbon from the connector when absolutely necessary!}} |
| + | |
| + | === Attaching the board === |
| + | |
| + | When connecting the ribbon, the electrical contact must be oriented downward. |
| + | |
| + | [[Fichier:Cansat-Attaching-Boards.jpg|640px]] |
| + | |
| + | Ribbon must be inserted straight in the FPC connector |
| + | |
| + | [[Fichier:Cansat-Attaching-FPC-01.png|640px]] |
| + | |
| + | Both side of the of the connector must be pressed down to secure the ribbon. |
| + | If now properly closed, some signals will not be shipped on the ribbon. |
| + | |
| + | [[Fichier:Cansat-Attaching-FPC-02.png|640px]] |
| + | |
| + | You can also check the "[https://youtu.be/dmc9noI2WAs YouTube Video]" explaining on to attach the boards. |
| | | |
| + | {{youtube-box|Attaching Cansat boards|https://youtu.be/dmc9noI2WAs}} |
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| {{ENG-CANSAT-PICO-TRAILER}} | | {{ENG-CANSAT-PICO-TRAILER}} |