Différences entre versions de « AdaFruit Motor Shield Souder »

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Ligne 54 : Ligne 54 :
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-13.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-13.jpg]]
 +
 +
Flip the board over and solder in the resistor network and switch. You won't need to clip the leads as they are quite short aleady.
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-14.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-14.jpg]]
 +
 +
Next are the three integrated circuits (ICs) '''IC1''', '''IC2''' and '''IC3'''. When ICs come from the factory, the legs are angled out somewhat which makes it difficult to insert them into the PCB. Prepare them for soldering by gently bending the legs against a flat tabletop so that they are perfectly straight.
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-15.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-15.jpg]]
 +
 +
The latest kits from Adafruit come with 2 16-pin sockets for the L293D motor drivers. They are OPTIONAL and not necessary for operation.
 +
 +
If you are not experienced with driving motors ( your likelyhood of wiring up a mis-specified motor is high) you should install these so if the L293Ds are destroyed you can easily replace them
 +
 +
If you are experienced with driving motors, you may want to skip the sockets as the decrease the chips' heat-sinking abilities.
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-16.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-16.jpg]]
 +
 +
ICs must be placed in the correct orientation to work properly. To help with placement, each chip has a U notch at the top of the chip. On the circuit board there is a printed out image of the chip outline and one end has a U notch. Make sure the chip notch is on the same end as the image notch. In this PCB, all are facing the same way.
 +
 +
Gently insert the three chips. Check to make sure none of the legs got bent or broken.
 +
 +
The 74HC595 goes in the middle, and the two L293Ds go on either side.
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-17.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-17.jpg]]
 +
 +
Solder each pin of the chips.
 +
 +
The four 'middle' pins of the L293D motor driver chips are tied to a large heat sink and thus may end up getting 'bridged' with solder as shown in the second image.
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-18.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-18.jpg]]
Ligne 68 : Ligne 88 :
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-20.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-20.jpg]]
 +
 +
Next are the three 100uF electrolytic capacitors '''C1''', '''C3''' and '''C5'''. Electrolytic capacitors are polarized and must be placed in the correct orientation or they could pop! The long leg of the capacitor is the positive (+) leg and goes into the hole marked with a +. The close-up images shown here indicate with hole is the + one.
 +
 +
Capacitors are not color-coded. The body color can vary from blue to violet to green to black so''' be sure to read the value on the side, don't depend on the color'''!
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-21.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-21.jpg]]
Ligne 74 : Ligne 98 :
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-23.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-23.jpg]]
 +
 +
After double-checking their polarity, solder and clip the three capacitors
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-24.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-24.jpg]]
 +
 +
Place the two 47uF remaining electrolytic capacitors, '''C7''' and '''C8'''
 +
 +
These are also polarized so make sure the long lead is inserted into the + hole in the silkscreened image.
 +
 +
Capacitors are not color-coded. The body color can vary from blue to violet to green to black so '''be sure to read the value on the side, don't depend on the color!'''
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-25.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-25.jpg]]
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-26.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-26.jpg]]
 +
 +
Solder and clip the two capacitors
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-27.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-27.jpg]]
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-28.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-28.jpg]]
 +
 +
Next is the 3mm LED used to indicate motor power. LEDs are polarized, just like capacitors, and the long lead is the positive (+) lead.
 +
 +
Make sure the LED is placed correctly otherwise it wont work!
  
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-29.jpg]]
 
[[Fichier:MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-29.jpg]]

Version du 6 décembre 2012 à 11:52

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-01.jpg

First, check that you have all the parts! Look over the parts list here and shown on the left.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-02.jpg

Place the motor shield PCB in a vise or other circuit-board holder and turn on your soldering iron to 700 degrees.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-03.jpg

The first parts to go in are the two resistors, R1 (Brown Green Red Gold) and R2 (Brown Black Orange Gold). Bend the resistors so that they look like staples, as seen in this photo

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-04.jpg

Next, slip the resistors into the PCB as shown, so that they sit flat against the circuit board. Bend the wire legs out a bit so that when the board is flipped over

Resistors are not polarized, that means you can put them in "either way" and they'll work just fine.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-05.jpg

Using your soldering iron tip, heat the resistor wire lead and the metal ring (pad) at the same time, after a few seconds, poke a little solder in so that it melts into a nice cone. Remove the solder and then remove the soldering iron. Do this for all 4 wires.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-06.jpg

Check your work, you should have clean solder joints

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-07.jpg

Clip the long leads, just above the solder joint using diagonal cutters

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-08.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-09.jpg

Next place the three yellow ceramic capacitors C4, C2 and C6. Ceramic capacitors are not polarized so you can put them in "either way" and they work fine.

Bend the leads out just like you did with the resistors.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-10.jpg

Solder all 6 wires, then clip them as you did with the resistors.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-11.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-12.jpg

Next is the 6mm tactile switch RESET and the resistor network RN1. The tact switch is used to reset the Arduino since its not possible to reach the reset button once the motor shield is on.

The resistor network is used to pull-down the pins on the motor driver chips so that they don't power up the motors before the Arduino sketch tells them to.

The tactile switch can go in 'either way'. The resistor network, however, must go in a certain way. Make sure the end with a dot is posititioned so it is at the same end as the X in the silkscreened image of the resistor network. (See picture on left)

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-13.jpg

Flip the board over and solder in the resistor network and switch. You won't need to clip the leads as they are quite short aleady.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-14.jpg

Next are the three integrated circuits (ICs) IC1, IC2 and IC3. When ICs come from the factory, the legs are angled out somewhat which makes it difficult to insert them into the PCB. Prepare them for soldering by gently bending the legs against a flat tabletop so that they are perfectly straight.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-15.jpg

The latest kits from Adafruit come with 2 16-pin sockets for the L293D motor drivers. They are OPTIONAL and not necessary for operation.

If you are not experienced with driving motors ( your likelyhood of wiring up a mis-specified motor is high) you should install these so if the L293Ds are destroyed you can easily replace them

If you are experienced with driving motors, you may want to skip the sockets as the decrease the chips' heat-sinking abilities.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-16.jpg

ICs must be placed in the correct orientation to work properly. To help with placement, each chip has a U notch at the top of the chip. On the circuit board there is a printed out image of the chip outline and one end has a U notch. Make sure the chip notch is on the same end as the image notch. In this PCB, all are facing the same way.

Gently insert the three chips. Check to make sure none of the legs got bent or broken.

The 74HC595 goes in the middle, and the two L293Ds go on either side.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-17.jpg

Solder each pin of the chips.

The four 'middle' pins of the L293D motor driver chips are tied to a large heat sink and thus may end up getting 'bridged' with solder as shown in the second image.

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-18.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-19.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-20.jpg

Next are the three 100uF electrolytic capacitors C1, C3 and C5. Electrolytic capacitors are polarized and must be placed in the correct orientation or they could pop! The long leg of the capacitor is the positive (+) leg and goes into the hole marked with a +. The close-up images shown here indicate with hole is the + one.

Capacitors are not color-coded. The body color can vary from blue to violet to green to black so be sure to read the value on the side, don't depend on the color!

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-21.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-22.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-23.jpg

After double-checking their polarity, solder and clip the three capacitors

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-24.jpg

Place the two 47uF remaining electrolytic capacitors, C7 and C8

These are also polarized so make sure the long lead is inserted into the + hole in the silkscreened image.

Capacitors are not color-coded. The body color can vary from blue to violet to green to black so be sure to read the value on the side, don't depend on the color!

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-25.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-26.jpg

Solder and clip the two capacitors

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-27.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-28.jpg

Next is the 3mm LED used to indicate motor power. LEDs are polarized, just like capacitors, and the long lead is the positive (+) lead.

Make sure the LED is placed correctly otherwise it wont work!

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-29.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-30.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-31.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-32.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-33.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-34.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-35.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-36.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-37.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-38.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-39.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-40.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-41.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-42.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-43.jpg

MOTOR-SHIELD-SOUDER-44.jpg

Traduit avec l'autorisation d'AdaFruit Industries - Translated with the permission from Adafruit Industries - www.adafruit.com

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