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Pololu-Zumo-Shield-Arduino-assembler-shield (voir la source)
Version du 7 avril 2017 à 14:38
, 7 avril 2017 à 14:38→Connecteurs Arduino
An easy way to line up the Arduino headers for soldering is to plug them into an Arduino, then place the shield upside-down on top of them, as shown in the picture below. Be careful to insert the header pins into the correct set of holes before you begin soldering. '''Note:''' if you use this alignment technique, make sure your soldering iron temperature is not excessively hot and avoid holding the iron on a single pin for more than a few seconds as this could melt the Arduino’s female headers.
An easy way to line up the Arduino headers for soldering is to plug them into an Arduino, then place the shield upside-down on top of them, as shown in the picture below. Be careful to insert the header pins into the correct set of holes before you begin soldering. '''Note:''' if you use this alignment technique, make sure your soldering iron temperature is not excessively hot and avoid holding the iron on a single pin for more than a few seconds as this could melt the Arduino’s female headers.
{{POLImage|Pololu-Zumo-Shield-Arduino-assembler-shield-10.jpg|350px|Le Zumo Shield déposé sur les connecteurs Arduino avant la soudure}}
On the bottom of the board, trim the four Arduino header pins closest to the front of the board on each side to prevent them from contacting the motor housings. If you think there is a chance these pins might still touch the motor cases, you can put some electrical tape on the motors to act as insulation.
{{POLImage|Pololu-Zumo-Shield-Arduino-assembler-shield-11.jpg|350px|Le Zumo Shield déposé sur les connecteurs Arduino avant la soudure}}
== Cavaliers et connexions complémentaires==
'''Optional:''' If you want to enable the buzzer, enable the battery level input, or disable the compass, now is a good time to add and/or cut jumper connections to configure the shield to your liking. This can also be done later, though soldering to these pins is more difficult once the robot is assembled (especially if you decide later you want to add header pins for use with shorting blocks; this would require a lot of disassembly). The jumpers are explained in detail in Section 3.c. The buzzer and battery level jumpers can be connected by soldering in a short piece of wire between the two holes, while the compass I²C connections can be broken by cutting the trace on the top of the board between the holes.
{{underline|'''Note:''' there is not enough clearance to use male headers on the battery level and compass I²C jumpers if you are using an Arduino with a DIP (through-hole) microcontroller.}}
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