Différences entre versions de « AdaFruit Wave Shield Souder »
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[[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder04-02.jpg]] | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder04-02.jpg]] | ||
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+ | Now go thru and solder the 8 leftmost pins that stick out from the holder. The three rightmost pins are thinner and closer together so they are tougher to solder. Luckily they are not used and you simply skip them (although the photo shows them done) | ||
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+ | Check that you have no solder bridges - the pins should not be soldered to the metal body of the holder or to each other | ||
== Titre == | == Titre == | ||
Ligne 37 : | Ligne 41 : | ||
[[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder05-03.jpg]] | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder05-03.jpg]] | ||
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+ | Next, we will solder all of the many resistors. The 10K resistor R6 is first. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Form them into staples (as shown left with a 100 ohm resistor), then place them so they sit flat against the PCB, in the correct locations. Resistors don't have polarity so they can go in 'either way' and work fine! | ||
+ | |||
+ | Once placed, bend the leads out so the resistors dont fall out | ||
== Titre == | == Titre == | ||
Ligne 42 : | Ligne 52 : | ||
[[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder06-02.jpg]] | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder06-02.jpg]] | ||
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+ | Solder the leads to the pads (metal ring) by heating both with the side-tip of the iron for 3 seconds and then poking in a bit of solder | ||
== Titre == | == Titre == | ||
Ligne 47 : | Ligne 59 : | ||
[[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder07-02.jpg]] | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder07-02.jpg]] | ||
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+ | Use your diagonal cutters to clip the leads off just above the solder joint | ||
== Titre == | == Titre == | ||
[[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder08.jpg]] | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder08.jpg]] | ||
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+ | Finish up the resistors by placing '''R8''' (100Kohm), and '''R7''' (1.5K) | ||
== Titre == | == Titre == | ||
[[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder09.jpg]] | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder09.jpg]] | ||
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+ | Solder the components | ||
[[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder09-02.jpg]] | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder09-02.jpg]] | ||
Ligne 64 : | Ligne 82 : | ||
== Titre == | == Titre == | ||
[[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder10.jpg]] | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder10.jpg]] | ||
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+ | Next is the 0.01uF ceramic capacitor '''C8'''. The tricky part here is that in older kits there are many 0.1uF ceramic capacitors in the kit that look identical to the 0.01uF! | ||
+ | |||
+ | The way to tell the difference is look for the '''103''' printed on it. If it says '''104''' then it's a 0.1uF. Make sure it says '''103'''! This capacitor forms the output low-pass filter for the audio so its important to have the right value. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Lately I have been shipping kits with ''axial'' (long-ways) package, not ''radial'' (side-ways) package. These are longer (see left) and are easy to bend over for soldering. This way there is less confusion. Either way, try to spot the '''103''' marking | ||
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+ | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder10-02.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder10-03.jpg]] | ||
== Titre == | == Titre == | ||
[[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder11.jpg]] | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder11.jpg]] | ||
− | == Titre == | + | Place the capacitor right next to '''R7'''. |
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+ | Ceramic capacitors are non-polarized and can go in 'either way' | ||
+ | |||
+ | == Titre xxx == | ||
[[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder12.jpg]] | [[Fichier:ADF-WaveShield-Souder12.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Solder and clip the small capacitor leads | ||
== Titre == | == Titre == |
Version du 8 mars 2012 à 12:04
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Get ready by placing the PCB in a vise
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We're going to the SD card first. While surface mount parts are a little tougher than thru-hole, this piece has pin spacing of 0.1" so it is quite easy. Doing it first also gives us lots of working room.
The holder should 'snap' perfectly into place thanks to two bumps on the bottom.
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We'll start with the four side tabs that are used to mechanically secure the card holder in place.
Heat up the metal tab and the pad (the silver square beneath it) for 3 seconds with a hot soldering iron, then poke just a bit of solder in.
Do this for all three corners. Once this is done you should not be able to lift the card holder
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Now go thru and solder the 8 leftmost pins that stick out from the holder. The three rightmost pins are thinner and closer together so they are tougher to solder. Luckily they are not used and you simply skip them (although the photo shows them done)
Check that you have no solder bridges - the pins should not be soldered to the metal body of the holder or to each other
Titre
Next, we will solder all of the many resistors. The 10K resistor R6 is first.
Form them into staples (as shown left with a 100 ohm resistor), then place them so they sit flat against the PCB, in the correct locations. Resistors don't have polarity so they can go in 'either way' and work fine!
Once placed, bend the leads out so the resistors dont fall out
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Solder the leads to the pads (metal ring) by heating both with the side-tip of the iron for 3 seconds and then poking in a bit of solder
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Use your diagonal cutters to clip the leads off just above the solder joint
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Finish up the resistors by placing R8 (100Kohm), and R7 (1.5K)
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Solder the components
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Next is the 0.01uF ceramic capacitor C8. The tricky part here is that in older kits there are many 0.1uF ceramic capacitors in the kit that look identical to the 0.01uF!
The way to tell the difference is look for the 103 printed on it. If it says 104 then it's a 0.1uF. Make sure it says 103! This capacitor forms the output low-pass filter for the audio so its important to have the right value.
Lately I have been shipping kits with axial (long-ways) package, not radial (side-ways) package. These are longer (see left) and are easy to bend over for soldering. This way there is less confusion. Either way, try to spot the 103 marking
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Place the capacitor right next to R7.
Ceramic capacitors are non-polarized and can go in 'either way'
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Solder and clip the small capacitor leads
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Traduit avec l'autorisation d'AdaFruit Industries - Translated with the permission from Adafruit Industries - www.adafruit.com
Toute référence, mention ou extrait de cette traduction doit être explicitement accompagné du texte suivant : « Traduction par MCHobby (www.MCHobby.be) - Vente de kit et composants » avec un lien vers la source (donc cette page) et ce quelque soit le média utilisé.
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