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Pololu-Zumo-Shield-Arduino-assembler-shield (voir la source)
Version du 7 avril 2017 à 14:47
, 7 avril 2017 à 14:47→Cavaliers et connexions complémentaires
== Cavaliers et connexions complémentaires==
== Cavaliers et connexions complémentaires==
'''Optional:''' If you want to enable the buzzer, enable the battery level input, or disable the compass, now is a good time to add and/or cut jumper connections to configure the shield to your liking. This can also be done later, though soldering to these pins is more difficult once the robot is assembled (especially if you decide later you want to add header pins for use with shorting blocks; this would require a lot of disassembly). The jumpers are explained in detail in Section 3.c. The buzzer and battery level jumpers can be connected by soldering in a short piece of wire between the two holes, while the compass I²C connections can be broken by cutting the trace on the top of the board between the holes.
# '''Optional:''' If you want to enable the buzzer, enable the battery level input, or disable the compass, now is a good time to add and/or cut jumper connections to configure the shield to your liking. This can also be done later, though soldering to these pins is more difficult once the robot is assembled (especially if you decide later you want to add header pins for use with shorting blocks; this would require a lot of disassembly). The jumpers are explained in detail in Section 3.c. The buzzer and battery level jumpers can be connected by soldering in a short piece of wire between the two holes, while the compass I²C connections can be broken by cutting the trace on the top of the board between the holes.
{{underline|'''Note:''' there is not enough clearance to use male headers on the battery level and compass I²C jumpers if you are using an Arduino with a DIP (through-hole) microcontroller.}}
{{underline|'''Note:''' there is not enough clearance to use male headers on the battery level and compass I²C jumpers if you are using an Arduino with a DIP (through-hole) microcontroller.}}
{{ambox|text=Instead of making a wire connection, you can solder a 1×3 male header to the buzzer jumper holes to allow the use of a shorting block for connecting the buzzer. You can also use male headers and shorting blocks for the battery level jumper and compass jumpers if you have an Arduino Uno {{underline|with an SMD (surface mount) microcontroller}}, Arduino Leonardo, or A-Star 32U4 Prime. However, there is {{underline|not enough clearance}} to use male headers on the battery level and compass I²C jumpers if you are using an Arduino with a DIP (through-hole) microcontroller.}}
{{POLImage|Pololu-Zumo-Shield-Arduino-assembler-shield-20.jpg|350px|Le Zumo Shield avec identification des cavaliers}}
# '''Optional:''' At this point, you might consider soldering additional components (such as sensors), or headers or wires for connecting them, to the shield. If you do this, {{underline|please check to make sure your part placement does not interfere with the shield’s ability to mate with the Arduino or the chassis}}. In particular, note that only components in the outermost three rows of the front expansion area can extend below the board (the fourth front-expansion row can only be used for pins extending above the board), and if you add any through-hole parts to the prototyping areas on the shield, you will need to drill corresponding holes in the acrylic spacer plate for the leads to fit into.
== Les moteurs ==
# Cut two of the included jumper wires in half to form four segments, and trim off the ends that are covered in adhesive (the adhesive could interfere with making a good electrical connection to the motor). These wire segments will be used as motor leads.
# Solder a pair of leads to each motor. You might find it helpful to make a small bend at the tip of each lead to hook into the hole in the motor lead tab to hold it in place for soldering. Warning: holding the soldering iron against the motor lead for more than a few seconds can start to damage the motor brushes, so try to be reasonably quick/efficient with this soldering; if the first attempt does not go well, remove the soldering iron and let the motor cool for a few seconds before trying again.
{{Pololu-Zumo-Shield-Arduino-TRAILER}}
{{Pololu-Zumo-Shield-Arduino-TRAILER}}