ENG-CANSAT-V2-ASSEMBLY

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Abstract

The original version of the CANSAT kit required many soldering operation. It's intimidating for newcomers with little experience with a soldering iron.

With the CANSAT V2 kit, things have been made easier than ever, no solder required!

Assembling the Cansat

Let's prepare the main CANSAT board.

 

  Take the base board and orient the board to see the USB label on the left and the "Pico/MCU facin this side" in front of you.
  Grab the CPU board with the microcontroler facing front.
  Now, insert the MCU board onto the 2x20 pin connector.
450px Even when not required yet, user can pick the Lipo battery then plug it into the 2 poles JST connector (facing the microcontroler).
 
 As soon as the battery is connected it will start to discharge in the board. The discharge can be compensated:
  • either by plug in power on the USB connector.
  • either by shorting the pads of "PWR Enable" connector (MCU sill also shutdown).
  When required, plug the µFl antenna coax.


Lipo Booster soldering

The kit can be used either with a PowerBoost 500 Charger, either a PowerBoost 1000 Charger.

The soldering operation depends on the selected PowerBoost model.

 

PowerBoost 500 Charger Soldering

The PowerBoost 500 is the default powering system of this kit.

The instructions doesn't applies to the PowerBoost 1000 charger.

 

Let's solder it

  Pico up the base board with the back of the board on the desk.

You should see Qwiic connector and the text "PowerBoost 500 Charger" written.

  Place a section of 8 pins into the connector (the short part into the connector).

Tip: use a small piece a paper tape to maintain the connector right in place.

  Flip over the board and solder the connector in place.
  Flip the board again (to see the "PowerBoost" text).

Slides the PowerBoost 500 on the connector, Solder it and cut-out the pin near of the board (with a diagonal cutter).

WARNING: Electronic components must be visible on the breakout!

Tip:

  • Push on the PowerBoost breakout with the nail against the connector.
    This will flatten the breakout on the connector (and make it paralleled to the base board).
  • Charge the tip of the iron with some solder.
  • Tack a drop of solder on one pin to make the breakout staying right in place (no need to be perfect right now)
  • Solder the other pins of the breakout
  • Now solder the initial tacked pin (to have a nice & great solder join on that pin too)


Written by Meurisse D. for MCHobby


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