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{{Hack-ENG-MotorSkin-NAV}}
 
{{Hack-ENG-MotorSkin-NAV}}
 
{{traduction}}
 
 
 
Here a list of steps to assemble the motor-skin. All those steps should take in between 30 to 40 minutes.  
 
Here a list of steps to assemble the motor-skin. All those steps should take in between 30 to 40 minutes.  
  
Ligne 71 : Ligne 68 :
  
 
== Les connecteurs ==
 
== Les connecteurs ==
 
{{traduction}}
 
 
 
The motor-skin board is provided with a pinHeader section. You can also use a {{pl|948|stacking header for PyBoard}}.
 
The motor-skin board is provided with a pinHeader section. You can also use a {{pl|948|stacking header for PyBoard}}.
  
Ligne 130 : Ligne 124 :
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0026.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0026.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Une fois les connecteurs maintenu en place à l'aide de quelques soudures:
+
{{asm-text}} One the connector maintained with some soldering:
* Vous pouvez retirer votre pyboard.
+
* You can remove your pyboard.
* Souder toutes les broches des différents connecteurs
+
* Solder all the pins of the connector. Start with the pins not yet soldered and finish the pin you already soldered (here before).
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0027.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0027.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Voila c'est soudé.
+
{{asm-text}} Voila, it is finish.
  
{{ambox|text=Si vous prêtez attention à l'image, vous remarquerez que certaines broches du connecteur 2x6 broches ne sont pas soudées!}}
+
{{ambox|text=If you take care to the picture, you will notice that some of the 2x6 connector's pins are not soldered! As those pins are not used with the motor-skin, it is not relevant to solder them all... but using them will still allow you to wire some servo motor on the top.}}
 
 
Ces broches ne sont pas utilisés par le motor-skin, il n'est donc pas important qu'elles soient toutes soudées sur la carte.
 
  
 
{{asm-end}}
 
{{asm-end}}
  
== Deuxième partie ==
+
== Second part ==
Nous pouvons maintenant poursuivre les opérations d'assemblage.
+
Now, we can finish our assembly operations.
  
 
{{asm-begin}}
 
{{asm-begin}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0028.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0028.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Placer les connecteurs des moteurs sur M1 et M2.
+
{{asm-text}} Place the connectors for M1 and M2.
 
 
Placez les biens contre le connecteurs que nous venons de souder.
 
  
Truc & astuce: pour souder ces connecteurs plus facilement, vous pouvez charger la panne de votre fer à souder avec de l'éteint... puis déposer une goûte d'étain sur une des broches du connecteur.  
+
Place them flat on the pinHeader (or stacking header) we just place on the board.
  
Soudez ensuite l'autre broche du connecteur et rectifiez la soudure sur la première broche du connecteur.   
+
Tips & tricks: to ease the soldering operation, you can place a tip of stain on the iron... then fix the connector with the stain. After you solder the second pinHeader properly. Finally you come back to the initial pin to finish up the soldering of the first pin.   
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0029.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0029.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Si vous avez optez pour le {{pl|918|Motor-skin Kit}} alors vous disposez d'un {{pl|463|régulateur de tension Pololu S7V7F5 - 5V step-up/step-down}}.
+
{{asm-text}} If you buy the {{pl|918|Motor-skin Kit}} then it is the time to solder the {{pl|463|S7V7F5 Pololu regulator- 5V step-up/step-down}}.
  
Soudez le connecteur (à angle droit) sur le régulateur de tension. Comme indiqué sur l'image.
+
Solder the right angle connector on the pololu board (like shown on the picture).
  
Une fois soudé, les broches du connecteur dépasse beaucoup derrière le régulateur. Raccourcissez les à l'aide de votre pince coupante.
+
Once soldered, the pin should largely exceed from the regulator board. Take your diagonal cutter and shorten the pins flat to the board.
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0030.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0030.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Faites correspondre la sortie VOut du régulateur à la pastille VOut sur la carte Motor-Skin.
+
{{asm-text}} Place the pololu board on the motor-skin... the regulator's VOUT pin should be place on the Motor-skin's VOUT hole.
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0032.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0032.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Une fois soudé, le régulateur est placé comme ci-contre sur la carte.
+
{{asm-text}} Solder the Pololu board on the motor skin as shown on this picture.
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0033.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0033.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Placer et souder le connecteur 1x4 broche sur la carte. Ce connecteur permettra ensuite de placer le {{pl|561|senseur Ultrason HC-SR04}}.
+
{{asm-text}} Place and solder the 1x4 connector on the board. This connector will thake the {{pl|561|Ultrasonic HC-SR04 sensor}} in.
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0035.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0035.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} C'est le moment de placer le connecteur d'alimentation Jack.
+
{{asm-text}} This the moment for placing the Power Jack connector.
  
Il permet d'alimenter votre Pyboard et {{underline|l'étage moteur de la carte Motor-Skin}} à partir d'un bloc pile (10V Max!!!)
+
With it, you can power your pyboard and {{underline|the motors and the drivers of the Motor-Skin board}} from a batteries (10V Max!!!)
  
Le connecteur jack utilise la polarité suivante:
+
The Jack connector uses the following power convention (the most common one):
* Centre positif.
+
* Positive Centre.
* extérieur négatif.  
+
* Negative barrel.  
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0036-prepare.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0036-prepare.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Avant de souder le bornier, il faut retourner la carte et enlever le verni de protection sur les pastilles en grattant à l'aide d'un cutter.
+
{{asm-text}} Before soldering the Jack, you will have to upside-down the board and remove a bit of the silkscreen. We accidently place a protection over one of the connector (like showed on the picture).  
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0036.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0036.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Souder ensuite l'autre bornier d'alimentation.
+
{{asm-text}} Then solder the other power terminal.
  
Tout comme le connecteur Jack, il permet d'alimenter votre Pyboard et {{underline|l'étage moteur de la carte Motor-Skin}} à partir d'un bloc pile (10V Max!!!)
+
As the barrel jack connector, this terminal can be used to power the PyBoard and {{underline|the motors + motor skin board}} from external batteries (10V Max!!!)
  
{{ambox-stop|text=Attention à la polarité lors de vos raccordement. Vous tromper détruirait les différents éléments du motor-skin.}}
+
{{ambox-stop|text=TAKE A GREAT CARE ABOUT POLARITY while wiring the board. An error on the power connexion (wrong way) will distroy the motor-skin.}}
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0038.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0038.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Souder le petit '''bouton noir''' sur l'emplacement marqué '''Reset'''.
+
{{asm-text}} Solder the '''small black button''' on the place named '''Reset'''.
  
Ce bouton est visible en bas à gauche de l'image
+
You can see this button on the top left position of the image.
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0039.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0039.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Souder ensuite le les quatres petits '''boutons blancs''' sur les emplacements '''SW1, SW2, SW3, SW4'''
+
{{asm-text}} Then solder the 4 '''small white button''' on the places named '''SW1, SW2, SW3, SW4'''
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0041.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0041.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Si vous avez soudez des stacking headers sur votre Motor-Skin alors replacez le motor-skin sur votre PyBoard.
+
{{asm-text}} If you had selected the stacking headers on your Motor-Skin board then push it on your PyBoard.
  
Nous allons placer le L293D sur le support, il serait dommage de tordre des broches en poussant trop fort sur le L293D.
+
We will place the L293D on the IC holder. By doing so, we will not bend the stacking header pin if we are pushing to hard on the the L293D.
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0042.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0042.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Avant d'insérer le L293D, revenons quelques secondes sur les détrompteurs qui indique comment orienter le L290D sur le support DIP 16.
+
{{asm-text}} Before we place the L293D chip, please note the half moon symbol on the chip which indicates the way to place the chip on the chip holder.
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0045.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0045.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Placez une rangée de patte du L293D sur une surface plane (le bureau par exemple).
+
{{asm-text}} Place the side of the l293D on a place surface (on your desk).
  
Puis appliquer une légère pression pour redresser les pattes.
+
Then apply a pressure to bend the pins (all in the same time, all in the same way).
  
Faites pareil avec les pattes de l'autre côté du L293D.
+
Do the same on the other side of the L293D chip.
  
Répéter l'opération autant de fois que nécessaire jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez insérer les pattes du L293D sur le support.  
+
Repeat the operation several time on each side of the chip until it perfectly fit on the chip holder.  
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0046.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0046.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Voila, c'est terminé, votre carte Motor-Skin est prête.
+
{{asm-text}} Voila! Your Motor-Skin board is ready.
  
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0051.jpg}}
 
{{asm-row|img=capt0051.jpg}}
{{asm-text}} Si vous disposez du {{pl|918|motor-skin Kit}}, vous disposez également d'un senseur {{pl|561|Ultrason HC-SR04}} que vous pouvez placer sur votre carte Motor-Skin.
+
{{asm-text}} If you did buy a {{pl|918|motor-skin '''Kit'''}} then you also have a {{pl|561|HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor}} that you can place on the Motor-Skin board.
 
{{asm-end}}
 
{{asm-end}}
  
 
{{Hack-ENG-MotorSkin-TRAILER}}
 
{{Hack-ENG-MotorSkin-TRAILER}}

Version actuelle datée du 6 août 2017 à 14:08


MCHobby invest time and money to produce documentation and tutorials. It is a very long work made in the Open-Source spirit... so available for free to everyone.
IF you do like our documentation THEN help us by buying your products at MCHobby.

Here a list of steps to assemble the motor-skin. All those steps should take in between 30 to 40 minutes.

Warm your iron we will start.

Capt0051.jpg


Part one

Capt0001a.jpg Ok, we are ready to start.
  • Place the board in a third hand vice. The labels should be visible in the top.
  • Then place the 330 Ohms resistor (orange,orange, brown) in the R1 location
Capt0001b.jpg Bend the resistor pins under the board then return it upside-down and solder the two pins.
Capt0001c.jpg When solder, cut the pin with a diagonal cutter. Just cut the pins above the welding plot.

This cutting operation will be repeated after almost each soldering operation.

Capt0005.jpg After, place the 470 Ohms resistor (yellow, violet, brown) in the R2 location. Solder it as we do with the R1 resistor.
Capt0007.jpg Now, we will solder the 4.7 KOhms resistor (yellow, violet, red) in the R3 location (on the top of the picture)
Capt0008.jpg This time, we will place the 16 pins Integrated Circuit holder (also named DIP 16).

See the half-moon indicator on the side of the holder. It indicates the proper orientation for when placing the Integrated Circuit in the holded. So it is important to place it the right way on the board.

Place the holder as shown on the picture, toward the 4.7K resistor (toward the top of the image).

As for the resistor, you can bend some of the pins under the board to keep the holder right in place before solder it. Then solder the pins.

Capt0009.jpg We will now place and solder the 47µF electrolytic capacitor .

Take care about the polarity! the capa's "-" sign must be placed as showned on the picture.

Capt0010.jpg Here is an another view of the capa to help you placing it on the board.
Capt0011.jpg Now, we will place the Schottky Diode that should be placed on the D1 location.

This diode is also polarised. The trace on the diode (the white band) must correspond to the silk screen white band.

This diode automagicaly the Pyboard from the battery pack when the USB câble is removed from the PyBoard.

Capt0012.jpg Once soldered, the diode must be place identicaly to the diode showned on the picture.
Capt0013.jpg This is the turn of the 6 x 220nF capacitor.

Those capa are not polarized, you can solder it in one way or the other way.

Les connecteurs

The motor-skin board is provided with a pinHeader section. You can also use a stacking header for PyBoard.

The stacking header would allows to stack board over the motor skin (or wiring your own components) to contrôle them with your pyboard.

We will show how to assemble the two types of connectors on the Motor-Skin

Capt0015.jpg It is now time to choose the connector type:

You can select the connector included within the kit

OR

buy a set of stacking header for PyBoard.

Capt0016.jpg Using the standard pinHeader:

Place the section of pinHeader in the PyBoard connector and cut them to the appropriate length.

Capt0017.jpg Repeat the operation to conver the 3 sides of the PyBoard.

You should have 2 sections of 16 pins + 1 section of 10 pins.

Capt0019.jpg Place the motor-skin board over the pin-header.

The pinHeader's head should be visible through the holes of the Motor-Skin board.

Capt0020.jpg It is now time to use the iron to soler each of the pins on the motor-skin
Capt0021.jpg Using the stacking header:

Place all the sections of the kit "stacking header" on the motor-skin board.

The plastic part of the connector should not go down to the board. They should stays a bit "higher" (as on the picture).

Capt0022.jpg Then, it is very important to insert the motor-skin+connector on the PyBoard. This will align all the connectors properly before you starts the soldering phase.
Capt0023.jpg This picture shows the place for all the connectors.
Capt0024.jpg Now, upside-down the assembly and lay it down on you desk. Then fix some pins with a bit of stain (this operation will just fix the pinHeader on the motor-skin in the correct position... this should not be perfect by now).

This would help to keep the "perfect alignment" for further soldering phase.

Capt0026.jpg One the connector maintained with some soldering:
  • You can remove your pyboard.
  • Solder all the pins of the connector. Start with the pins not yet soldered and finish the pin you already soldered (here before).
Capt0027.jpg Voila, it is finish.

Second part

Now, we can finish our assembly operations.

Capt0028.jpg Place the connectors for M1 and M2.

Place them flat on the pinHeader (or stacking header) we just place on the board.

Tips & tricks: to ease the soldering operation, you can place a tip of stain on the iron... then fix the connector with the stain. After you solder the second pinHeader properly. Finally you come back to the initial pin to finish up the soldering of the first pin.

Capt0029.jpg If you buy the Motor-skin Kit then it is the time to solder the S7V7F5 Pololu regulator- 5V step-up/step-down.

Solder the right angle connector on the pololu board (like shown on the picture).

Once soldered, the pin should largely exceed from the regulator board. Take your diagonal cutter and shorten the pins flat to the board.

Capt0030.jpg Place the pololu board on the motor-skin... the regulator's VOUT pin should be place on the Motor-skin's VOUT hole.
Capt0032.jpg Solder the Pololu board on the motor skin as shown on this picture.
Capt0033.jpg Place and solder the 1x4 connector on the board. This connector will thake the Ultrasonic HC-SR04 sensor in.
Capt0035.jpg This the moment for placing the Power Jack connector.

With it, you can power your pyboard and the motors and the drivers of the Motor-Skin board from a batteries (10V Max!!!)

The Jack connector uses the following power convention (the most common one):

  • Positive Centre.
  • Negative barrel.
Capt0036-prepare.jpg Before soldering the Jack, you will have to upside-down the board and remove a bit of the silkscreen. We accidently place a protection over one of the connector (like showed on the picture).
Capt0036.jpg Then solder the other power terminal.

As the barrel jack connector, this terminal can be used to power the PyBoard and the motors + motor skin board from external batteries (10V Max!!!)

Capt0038.jpg Solder the small black button on the place named Reset.

You can see this button on the top left position of the image.

Capt0039.jpg Then solder the 4 small white button on the places named SW1, SW2, SW3, SW4
Capt0041.jpg If you had selected the stacking headers on your Motor-Skin board then push it on your PyBoard.

We will place the L293D on the IC holder. By doing so, we will not bend the stacking header pin if we are pushing to hard on the the L293D.

Capt0042.jpg Before we place the L293D chip, please note the half moon symbol on the chip which indicates the way to place the chip on the chip holder.
Capt0045.jpg Place the side of the l293D on a place surface (on your desk).

Then apply a pressure to bend the pins (all in the same time, all in the same way).

Do the same on the other side of the L293D chip.

Repeat the operation several time on each side of the chip until it perfectly fit on the chip holder.

Capt0046.jpg Voila! Your Motor-Skin board is ready.
Capt0051.jpg If you did buy a motor-skin Kit then you also have a HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor that you can place on the Motor-Skin board.



Créé par Meurisse D. pour MCHobby.be - Created by Meurisse D. for MCHobby.be

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